Episode 233: Making the secondhand economy more equitable, with Valeria of Thryft Ship

A better future for our planet means most people buying secondhand clothing most of the time. Right now we live in a “golden era” of shopping secondhand…if you’re the customer! But the infrastructure as it exists right now for the people doing the work of finding, repairing, cleaning, and selling secondhand clothing needs a lot of improvement.  This week, Amanda is joined by Valeria Brenner of Thryft Ship to dissect how and why the current state of secondhand resale isn’t equitable for the people doing the work:
  • We will break down the reality of the fees that these platforms are charging (and how it makes running a financially sustainable business nearly impossible for secondhand resellers),
  • We will talk about how the socially ingrained expectation of free shipping makes that even more difficult, 
  • And we will discuss how this system could be better! Maybe it will get some of you thinking about new tools and systems for the secondhand economy!
  • Also, Valeria will explain why the secondhand reseller community is so amazing.

 

Find Thryft Ship:
IG: @thryftship
Website: thryftship.com

Read Alex’s Substack (1-800-Vintage) about why she no longer calls herself a reseller

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Transcript

Welcome to Clotheshorse, the podcast that is just so happy that spring has arrived.

 

I’m your host, Amanda and this is episode 233.  So…it’s 2025.  We’re almost halfway through this year and there are literally so many things happening right now that are scary, tragic, and rage inducing….sometimes it can feel overwhelming to choose what you want to process and react to first. Because, wow, we have our hands full right now! Yet social media is still full of myths about reselling, thrifting, and who “deserves” secondhand clothes. 

 

Yeah, people are still fighting about who can buy, wear, and sell secondhand clothing on social media. I’ve been tagged in numerous posts over the past few weeks.  And last week I rolled my eyes so hard they practically fell out of my head when I scrolled past a post on Threads that said something like “I guess we’re going to see more gentrification of thrift stores now because of the tariffs,” followed by lots of hand wringing about resellers “stealing” clothes from “poor” people.

 

I’m bored with it.  Online squabbles about who should have access to secondhand clothing and where they are “allowed” to buy it are distractions from the larger issues facing the world right now.

 

Furthermore, these battles take the focus off of the real villains: the fashion industry and its overproduction of low quality clothing made of synthetic fibers.

 

Also: it’s super divisive in a time where we need like-minded people to work together, not against one another.   And yes, I do sometimes wonder if SHEIN and Temu are paying people to start online arguments about thrifting… because fighting  about this  only benefits fast fashion! With tariffs and the end of the de minimis loophole, these companies are feeling worried…I wouldn’t be surprised if we see more “anti thrifting” messaging on social media. Keep your eyes out for it!

 

While I’m bored and tired of fighting back against these kinds of messages, I also know that the future is secondhand…or more specifically: we need to collectively cut our consumption of new clothing by 75%. Which means we need most people buying secondhand clothing most of the time.  And that means that the circular economy–the secondhand economy–needs to grow and flourish.  Right now we live in a “golden era” of shopping secondhand…if you’re the customer! But the infrastructure as it exists right now for the people doing the work of finding, repairing, cleaning, and selling secondhand clothing is…not perfect. It’s not equitable. It has a long way to go to be better. 

 

I receive a lot of emails from people who want to make a career shift into sustainability.  They reach out to me for advice, to see if I have any connections, etc.  And I generally don’t know what to say to them because there isn’t much to say.  I also steer them towards the Conscious Fashion Collective, which has a jobs board and other resources for sustainable fashion professionals.

 

But really, what i should start telling them is…look for ways to help make the secondhand supply chain more efficient and equitable.  Brainstorm and develop tools that can grow this essential part of our economy. Think more about circular solutions beyond even clothing.  Because a better future requires a better secondhand system!



That’s all a long introduction to this week’s guest: Valeria, CEO and founder of Thryft Ship, a company that uses technology to make it easier for secondhand resellers to ship affordably and efficiently, particularly if they sell on Instagram and Facebook Marketplace.  And as Valeria will explain in this episode, often these platforms make the most financial sense for resellers because they aren’t dealing with the high fees of the other platforms.  But organizing shipping from these platforms is really difficult.  So Valeria developed a tool to make it easier!



And in this episode, we are going to dissect how and why the current state of secondhand resale isn’t equitable for the people doing the work:

  • We will break down the reality of the fees that these platforms are charging (and how it makes running a financially sustainable business nearly impossible for secondhand resellers),
  • We will talk about how the socially ingrained expectation of free shipping makes that even more difficult, 
  • And we will discuss how this system could be better! Maybe it will get some of you thinking about new tools and systems for the secondhand economy!
  • And also, Valeria will explain why the secondhand reseller community is so amazing.

 

Now, I’ll admit that we recorded this interview months ago, but I kept pushing out this episode due to a million other factors, not least of all the illnesses that made me miss a few weeks of episodes this year and the everchanging/chaotic state of the world right now that had me move things around and create new episodes.  So one thing I said in our conversation feels super out of date: I said that I hadn’t been seeing a lot of anti-reseller/arguments about thrifting online. Well that must have just been because we were all in collective shock about the election and the first few weeks of the Trump presidency, because wow, that stuff is back on social media in a big way.  I always just recommend that people take a listen to the episodes Alex of St. Evens and I did back in 2023 about the ethics of reselling, because I stand by them. They are the most comprehensive dissection of the secondhand economy that I have encountered.  Not-so-humble brag, I guess!  I would also recommend that you–if you haven’t already–check out Alex’s incredible Substack, 1-800-Vintage. I’m going to share a recent piece she wrote about how she no-longer calls herself a “reseller,” rather she uses “vintage dealer.” It’s a great read!  It also raises the question: what should we call secondhand resellers who are selling contemporary clothing, rather than vintage? I agree that it’s time for a name change because “reseller” applies to just about anyone selling something out there that they didn’t make with their own hands.  And when you’re selling secondhand, it’s very specialized and speaks to a list of important skills and tasks involved in finding, curating, repairing, cleaning, and selling secondhand items.  I don’t have an answer here….but I want to hear from you! What do YOU think we should call “secondhand resellers?” Send your answers my way!



Okay, with all of that, let’s jump into my conversation with Valeria!

Want to Support Amanda's Work on Clotheshorse?

If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording:  [email protected]

Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:

Thumbprint is Detroit’s only fair trade marketplace, located in the historic Eastern Market.  Our small business specializes in products handmade by empowered women in South Africa making a living wage creating things they love like hand painted candles and ceramics! We also carry a curated assortment of  sustainable/natural locally made goods. Thumbprint is a great gift destination for both the special people in your life and for yourself! Browse our online store at thumbprintdetroit.com and find us on instagram @thumbprintdetroit.

Picnicwear:  a slow fashion brand, ethically made by hand from vintage and deadstock materials – most notably, vintage towels! Founder, Dani, has worked in the industry as a fashion designer for over 10 years, but started Picnicwear in response to her dissatisfaction with the industry’s shortcomings. Picnicwear recently moved to rural North Carolina where all their clothing and accessories are now designed and cut, but the majority of their sewing is done by skilled garment workers in NYC. Their customers take comfort in knowing that all their sewists are paid well above NYC minimum wage. Picnicwear offers minimal waste and maximum authenticity: Future Vintage over future garbage.

Shift Clothing, out of beautiful Astoria, Oregon, with a focus on natural fibers, simple hardworking designs, and putting fat people first.  Discover more at shiftwheeler.com

High Energy Vintage is a fun and funky vintage shop located in Somerville, MA, just a few minutes away from downtown Boston. They offer a highly curated selection of bright and colorful clothing and accessories from the 1940s-1990s for people of all genders. Husband-and-wife duo Wiley & Jessamy handpick each piece for quality and style, with a focus on pieces that transcend trends and will find a home in your closet for many years to come! In addition to clothing, the shop also features a large selection of vintage vinyl and old school video games. Find them on instagram @ highenergyvintage, online at highenergyvintage.com, and at markets in and around Boston.

St. Evens is an NYC-based vintage shop that is dedicated to bringing you those special pieces you’ll reach for again and again. More than just a store, St. Evens is dedicated to sharing the stories and history behind the garments. 10% of all sales are donated to a different charitable organization each month.  New vintage is released every Thursday at wearStEvens.com, with previews of new pieces and more brought to you on Instagram at @wear_st.evens.

Deco Denim is a startup based out of San Francisco, selling clothing and accessories that are sustainable, gender fluid, size inclusive and high quality–made to last for years to come. Deco Denim is trying to change the way you think about buying clothes. Founder Sarah Mattes wants to empower people to ask important questions like, “Where was this made? Was this garment made ethically? Is this fabric made of plastic? Can this garment be upcycled and if not, can it be recycled?” Signup at decodenim.com to receive $20 off your first purchase. They promise not to spam you and send out no more than 3 emails a month, with 2 of them surrounding education or a personal note from the Founder. Find them on Instagram as @deco.denim.

The Pewter Thimble Is there a little bit of Italy in your soul? Are you an enthusiast of pre-loved decor and accessories? Bring vintage Italian style — and history — into your space with The Pewter Thimble (@thepewterthimble). We source useful and beautiful things, and mend them where needed. We also find gorgeous illustrations, and make them print-worthy. Tarot cards, tea towels and handpicked treasures, available to you from the comfort of your own home. Responsibly sourced from across Rome, lovingly renewed by fairly paid artists and artisans, with something for every budget. Discover more at thepewterthimble.com

Blank Cass, or Blanket Coats by Cass, is focused on restoring, renewing, and reviving the history held within vintage and heirloom textiles. By embodying and transferring the love, craft, and energy that is original to each vintage textile into a new garment, I hope we can reteach ourselves to care for and mend what we have and make it last. Blank Cass lives on Instagram @blank_cass and a website will be launched soon at blankcass.com.

Vagabond Vintage DTLV is a vintage clothing, accessories & decor reselling business based in Downtown Las Vegas. Not only do we sell in Las Vegas, but we are also located throughout resale markets in San Francisco as well as at a curated boutique called Lux and Ivy located in Indianapolis, Indiana. Jessica, the founder & owner of Vagabond Vintage DTLV, recently opened the first IRL location located in the Arts District of Downtown Las Vegas on August 5th. The shop has a strong emphasis on 60s & 70s garments, single stitch tee shirts & dreamy loungewear. Follow them on instagram, @vagabondvintage.dtlv and keep an eye out for their website coming fall of 2022.

Country Feedback is a mom & pop record shop in Tarboro, North Carolina. They specialize in used rock, country, and soul and offer affordable vintage clothing and housewares. Do you have used records you want to sell? Country Feedback wants to buy them! Find us on Instagram @countryfeedbackvintageandvinyl or head downeast and visit our brick and mortar. All are welcome at this inclusive and family-friendly record shop in the country!

Located in Whistler, Canada, Velvet Underground is a “velvet jungle” full of vintage and second-hand clothes, plants, a vegan cafe and lots of rad products from other small sustainable businesses. Our mission is to create a brand and community dedicated to promoting self-expression, as well as educating and inspiring a more sustainable and conscious lifestyle both for the people and the planet. Find us on Instagram @shop_velvetunderground or online at www.shopvelvetunderground.com

Selina Sanders, a social impact brand that specializes in up-cycled clothing, using only reclaimed, vintage or thrifted materials: from tea towels, linens, blankets and quilts.  Sustainably crafted in Los Angeles, each piece is designed to last in one’s closet for generations to come.  Maximum Style; Minimal Carbon Footprint.

Salt Hats:  purveyors of truly sustainable hats. Hand blocked, sewn and embellished in Detroit, Michigan.

Republica Unicornia Yarns: Hand-Dyed Yarn and notions for the color-obsessed. Made with love and some swearing in fabulous Atlanta, Georgia by Head Yarn Wench Kathleen. Get ready for rainbows with a side of Giving A Damn! Republica Unicornia is all about making your own magic using small-batch, responsibly sourced, hand-dyed yarns and thoughtfully made notions. Slow fashion all the way down and discover the joy of creating your very own beautiful hand knit, crocheted, or woven pieces. Find us on Instagram @republica_unicornia_yarns and at www.republicaunicornia.com.

Cute Little Ruin is an online shop dedicated to providing quality vintage and secondhand clothing, vinyl, and home items in a wide range of styles and price points.  If it’s ethical and legal, we try to find a new home for it!  Vintage style with progressive values.  Find us on Instagram at @CuteLittleRuin.