Episode 207: The Future of Fashion is Small, with Angela of FABRIC

The future of fashion is small, ethical, and circular. The problem right now? Big businesses control the supply chain, making it really hard for small brands and designers to succeed. FABRIC is working to change that by building a fully circular supply chain here in the United States, powered by many, many small businesses.

In this episode, Amanda is joined by Angela Johnson, co-founder of FABRIC. This episode discusses the following:
  • Angela’s experiences as a designer, both at the beginning of her career, and as she started her own brand.
  • We’ll get a little nostalgic with some conversation about her time working at X-Girl, an iconic 90s brand founded by Kim Gordon (of Sonic Youth) and Daisy von Furth. And oh yeah, we’re also going to talk about Days of Our Lives.
  • Angela will explain how everything she learned working in the garment industry in LA (along with her loyalty to her home state of Arizona) led her to create a fashion incubator in Tempe, Arizona.
  • We will also hear more about the vision for the Eco Parc, a fully circular fashion manufacturing hub and what it will take to bring that to life.
  • And we will round that all out by talking about how important it is to keep up this work, even on the days when it is really hard.

Transcript

Welcome to Clotheshorse, the podcast that is kinda excited to barely talk about SHEIN this week!

 

I’m your host, Amanda and this is episode 207.  This week’s guest is Angela Johnson, co-founder of FABRIC, a “fashion incubator providing programs, classes, services and resources to help fashion designers and entrepreneurs reach their potential.” As I mentioned in the introduction to the first episode in the SHEIN series, I had the opportunity to visit FABRIC in Tempe, Arizona a few months ago.  And I have to say, I was super blown away by what I saw while I was there.  I think this episode is a nice, optimistic palate cleanser after six hours of conversation about SHEIN, because Angela and everyone else at FABRIC are trying to create a future for fashion that is the antithesis of fast fashion: small batches, minimal waste, and fueled by small businesses. As you know, I believe that small business IS the future, and yes, I know that some small businesses are owned by terrible people or don’t pay people well or sell bad stuff that they buy from Temu. Yes, that really happens.  But ultimately, these bad small businesses are outnumbered by good businesses run by good people who want a better present and future. And you know what? The odds are stacked against them because–especially in the realm of clothing and any other consumer goods–the supply chain is controlled by the big corporations, meaning that small business owners have to work like ten times harder to make things that are good.   FABRIC is working to change that by building a fully circular supply chain here in the United States, powered by many, many small businesses.  Not only is that a win in terms of sustainability (and I mean that in the purest way, per the UN Sustainable Development Goals that we discussed last week), it could also bring the innovation, creativity and artistry back to fashion. 

 

This week’s episode is a long one, but I couldn’t find anything I wanted to cut.  So you could split this one over a few listening sessions if you want.  We will be discussing:

  • Angela’s experiences as a designer, both at the beginning of her career, and as she started her own brand.
  • We’ll get a little nostalgic with some conversation about her time working at X-Girl, an iconic 90s brand founded by Kim Gordon (of Sonic Youth) and Daisy von Furth. And oh yeah, we’re also going to talk about Days of Our Lives.
  • Angelea will explain how everything she learned working in the garment industry in LA (along with her loyalty to her home state of Arizona) led her to create a fashion incubator in Tempe, Arizona.
  • We will also hear more about the vision for the Eco Park, a fully circular fashion manufacturing hub  and what it will take to bring that to life.
  • And we will round that all out by talking about how important it is to keep up this work, even on the days when it is really hard.

 

Before we jump into that, I just want to remind you that July 15 (the day this episode is released) is the very last day to buy a ticket for the first and only Clotheshorse Jamboree.  So if you’re listening to this episode on the 15th, go buy your ticket now or forever hold your peace!

 

That’s all I have to say about that…let’s jump into my conversation with Angela!

Unfortunately there were some major issues with the transcription app this week.

 

Here are other ways you can access the transcript:

  • Apple podcasts includes a transcript when you use the app to listen.
  • Listen to this episode (with captions) on YouTube.
  • If there is a specific section you need, please reach out to me (Amanda) and I will try to manually make a transcript of that section for you.

 

 

Thanks to Angela for spending a few hours with me! I hope that I get a chance to return to Tempe again so I can hang out with her team, because everyone at Fabric is amazing! I want to give a shout out to Amelia for picking me up at the airport in her beautiful vintage car. Leslie for making sure I was well cared for while I was there (and bonding with me over single motherhood). And Angela and Sherri for creating an organization and a team that fills me with so much hope for a better future.

 

The last thing I’ll say to finish out this episode (because it’s 96 degrees outside and I need to turn that air conditioner back on) is this: there are many reasons why I wanted to feature Angela on an episode of Clotheshorse.  And by now you’ve probably realized most of them while listening to our conversation.  But there is one that you might not have picked up on and that’s this: for so long sustainable fashion and even a lot of the activism around it has been led by people with a lot of financial privilege.  Let’s be honest: the biggest names and even some of the organizations within the sustainability realm feel super white, financially comfortable, young, thin, and cisgendered.  And when I started Clotheshorse, I was acutely and painfully aware of that.  It felt just like working within the normal fashion industry.  There were a lot of days where I felt that someone like me–a nonbinary person in my 40s with a low income background and cancer scars–could never be a part of this.  That no one would want to listen to me because I wasn’t pretty, rich, and young. Certainly it made me feel like an outsider during my career. I don’t think I could have continued to work on Clotheshorse if I had found that the world outside of fashion, this community that was working against fast fashion, was the same as being inside fashion. Fortunately, over the years, I have found so many of you who have felt left out of the sustainable fashion community because you didn’t fit into those boxes, either.  

 

That’s one of the reasons  I use the term “slow fashion” rather than “sustainable fashion,” because slow fashion is for everyone, everybody, all of us. 

 

One thing that has struck me time and time again over the last few  years—and was particularly driven home by my visit to FABRIC–is that  WE are the ones doing the hard work of changing the status quo. We are the ones talking to our friends and family. Starting small ethical businesses.  Joining together to build the world we want.  And many of us are doing it the hard way because we don’t have generational wealth to fund our businesses or pay our bills.  Many of us are operating with no safety net as we try to change this world. We have so much to lose, and yet, we know that what the world will lose even more  if fast fashion continues as it currently is. 

 

So I want you to know that I see your hard work. I see that you get so tired and frustrated that sometimes you just have to cry.  I see those days when you just wish you didn’t know what you know now and you could just cover your ears and stop caring because…it would be EASIER than knowing and wanting to change things.

 

You matter.  And what you are doing matters, even if you feel like your contribution is tiny. It’s like I always say, one person can’t change the world alone, but when we are all working together, supporting one another, encouraging one another…well, we will change the world.  And we already are.  Look around you. It’s really happening.

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Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:

Thumbprint is Detroit’s only fair trade marketplace, located in the historic Eastern Market.  Our small business specializes in products handmade by empowered women in South Africa making a living wage creating things they love like hand painted candles and ceramics! We also carry a curated assortment of  sustainable/natural locally made goods. Thumbprint is a great gift destination for both the special people in your life and for yourself! Browse our online store at thumbprintdetroit.com and find us on instagram @thumbprintdetroit.

Picnicwear:  a slow fashion brand, ethically made by hand from vintage and deadstock materials – most notably, vintage towels! Founder, Dani, has worked in the industry as a fashion designer for over 10 years, but started Picnicwear in response to her dissatisfaction with the industry’s shortcomings. Picnicwear recently moved to rural North Carolina where all their clothing and accessories are now designed and cut, but the majority of their sewing is done by skilled garment workers in NYC. Their customers take comfort in knowing that all their sewists are paid well above NYC minimum wage. Picnicwear offers minimal waste and maximum authenticity: Future Vintage over future garbage.

Shift Clothing, out of beautiful Astoria, Oregon, with a focus on natural fibers, simple hardworking designs, and putting fat people first.  Discover more at shiftwheeler.com

High Energy Vintage is a fun and funky vintage shop located in Somerville, MA, just a few minutes away from downtown Boston. They offer a highly curated selection of bright and colorful clothing and accessories from the 1940s-1990s for people of all genders. Husband-and-wife duo Wiley & Jessamy handpick each piece for quality and style, with a focus on pieces that transcend trends and will find a home in your closet for many years to come! In addition to clothing, the shop also features a large selection of vintage vinyl and old school video games. Find them on instagram @ highenergyvintage, online at highenergyvintage.com, and at markets in and around Boston.

St. Evens is an NYC-based vintage shop that is dedicated to bringing you those special pieces you’ll reach for again and again. More than just a store, St. Evens is dedicated to sharing the stories and history behind the garments. 10% of all sales are donated to a different charitable organization each month.  New vintage is released every Thursday at wearStEvens.com, with previews of new pieces and more brought to you on Instagram at @wear_st.evens.

Deco Denim is a startup based out of San Francisco, selling clothing and accessories that are sustainable, gender fluid, size inclusive and high quality–made to last for years to come. Deco Denim is trying to change the way you think about buying clothes. Founder Sarah Mattes wants to empower people to ask important questions like, “Where was this made? Was this garment made ethically? Is this fabric made of plastic? Can this garment be upcycled and if not, can it be recycled?” Signup at decodenim.com to receive $20 off your first purchase. They promise not to spam you and send out no more than 3 emails a month, with 2 of them surrounding education or a personal note from the Founder. Find them on Instagram as @deco.denim.

The Pewter Thimble Is there a little bit of Italy in your soul? Are you an enthusiast of pre-loved decor and accessories? Bring vintage Italian style — and history — into your space with The Pewter Thimble (@thepewterthimble). We source useful and beautiful things, and mend them where needed. We also find gorgeous illustrations, and make them print-worthy. Tarot cards, tea towels and handpicked treasures, available to you from the comfort of your own home. Responsibly sourced from across Rome, lovingly renewed by fairly paid artists and artisans, with something for every budget. Discover more at thepewterthimble.com

Blank Cass, or Blanket Coats by Cass, is focused on restoring, renewing, and reviving the history held within vintage and heirloom textiles. By embodying and transferring the love, craft, and energy that is original to each vintage textile into a new garment, I hope we can reteach ourselves to care for and mend what we have and make it last. Blank Cass lives on Instagram @blank_cass and a website will be launched soon at blankcass.com.

Gabriela Antonas is a visual artist, an upcycler, and a fashion designer, but Gabriela Antonas is also a feminist micro business with radical ideals. She’s the one woman band, trying to help you understand, why slow fashion is what the earth needs. If you find your self in New Orleans, LA, you may buy her ready-to-wear upcycled garments in person at the store “Slow Down” (2855 Magazine St). Slow Down Nola only sells vintage and slow fashion from local designers. Gabriela’s garments are guaranteed to be in stock in person, but they also have a website so you may support this women owned and run business from wherever you are! If you are interested in Gabriela making a one of a kind garment for you DM her on Instagram at @slowfashiongabriela to book a consultation.

Vagabond Vintage DTLV is a vintage clothing, accessories & decor reselling business based in Downtown Las Vegas. Not only do we sell in Las Vegas, but we are also located throughout resale markets in San Francisco as well as at a curated boutique called Lux and Ivy located in Indianapolis, Indiana. Jessica, the founder & owner of Vagabond Vintage DTLV, recently opened the first IRL location located in the Arts District of Downtown Las Vegas on August 5th. The shop has a strong emphasis on 60s & 70s garments, single stitch tee shirts & dreamy loungewear. Follow them on instagram, @vagabondvintage.dtlv and keep an eye out for their website coming fall of 2022.

Country Feedback is a mom & pop record shop in Tarboro, North Carolina. They specialize in used rock, country, and soul and offer affordable vintage clothing and housewares. Do you have used records you want to sell? Country Feedback wants to buy them! Find us on Instagram @countryfeedbackvintageandvinyl or head downeast and visit our brick and mortar. All are welcome at this inclusive and family-friendly record shop in the country!

Located in Whistler, Canada, Velvet Underground is a “velvet jungle” full of vintage and second-hand clothes, plants, a vegan cafe and lots of rad products from other small sustainable businesses. Our mission is to create a brand and community dedicated to promoting self-expression, as well as educating and inspiring a more sustainable and conscious lifestyle both for the people and the planet. Find us on Instagram @shop_velvetunderground or online at www.shopvelvetunderground.com

Selina Sanders, a social impact brand that specializes in up-cycled clothing, using only reclaimed, vintage or thrifted materials: from tea towels, linens, blankets and quilts.  Sustainably crafted in Los Angeles, each piece is designed to last in one’s closet for generations to come.  Maximum Style; Minimal Carbon Footprint.

Salt Hats:  purveyors of truly sustainable hats. Hand blocked, sewn and embellished in Detroit, Michigan.

Republica Unicornia Yarns: Hand-Dyed Yarn and notions for the color-obsessed. Made with love and some swearing in fabulous Atlanta, Georgia by Head Yarn Wench Kathleen. Get ready for rainbows with a side of Giving A Damn! Republica Unicornia is all about making your own magic using small-batch, responsibly sourced, hand-dyed yarns and thoughtfully made notions. Slow fashion all the way down and discover the joy of creating your very own beautiful hand knit, crocheted, or woven pieces. Find us on Instagram @republica_unicornia_yarns and at www.republicaunicornia.com.

Cute Little Ruin is an online shop dedicated to providing quality vintage and secondhand clothing, vinyl, and home items in a wide range of styles and price points.  If it’s ethical and legal, we try to find a new home for it!  Vintage style with progressive values.  Find us on Instagram at @CuteLittleRuin.