Episode 212: All About Clothing Swaps, with Sam of BeReworn

Welcome to Clotheshorse, the podcast that is now obsessed with looking at old issues of Life magazine via the New York Public Library website. 

I’m your host, Amanda and this is episode 212.  This week–as promised last week–we are going to be talking about all things clothing swaps with my guest Sam, founder of Be Reworn, a platform that helps people find and host clothing swaps.  Sam will be sharing great advice for how to host your own clothing swap, including

• Where to have it
• Why volunteers are important
• The items you will need for a successful swap
• Why she recommends charging a ticket fee to participate 
• How to deal with worrying about whether or not anyone will show up
• And so much more!

But before that…let’s talk about plastic cups (and other disposable items).  In last week’s episode, I asked all of you who live outside the US to tell me about where and how disposable items (like those ubiquitous red SOLO cups) are used in your country.  And I received an email from a listener in Norway.  Let’s give it a read!

Hello, just wanted to answer your question about whether or not red solo cups are a thing outside of the US. I feel like those red plastic cups are extremely stereotypically American, and i think the conversation on culture differences and sustainability is something that should be talked about more, cus its fuuuun. So here are some things i wanna share as someone who lives outside of the US!

First of all, i am from Norway and grew up here.  My view on the US and sustainability is based on what i’ve seen on the internet, youtube videos, and generally what americans share or showcase digitally. I’ve never been to the US, so my assumptions can definitely be flawed! My understanding of the US is that one time use plastics are extremely common. I have often seen vlogs of people eating off of paper plates, drinking from plastic cups etc. Another thing i also see alot are americans using wet wipes to clean surfaces. These are things that fascinate me, cus I always end up thinking….why?? 

I dont see single use plastics used anywhere near as much as i see it used in the US. I don’t really understand why so many americans dont seem to use plates, cutlery, glass mugs or cups. Ive also found it so strange to see paper towels and wet wipes used instead of wash cloths. I’m used to this being a given in peoples homes. Its something i really cannot wrap my head around, cus why would someone spend money on something again and again instead of getting the reusable thing instead? As a european its just common sense to have the reusable thing in your home. 

So my question is ..well i guess first of: is my view correct or is it just the influencers on social media that love single use stuff? And if my view is correct, I’m interested in the big why? Idk if you have the answer, but its an interesting topic that ive thought about many times before.. What made the US end up doing it this way? I’m sure there is a reason! Detective mode ON!😎

PS to all the americans listening, I know not all of you live like this ok? Especially if you listen to this podcast i do trust that you know better 🙂 

Thank you, Cookie Crumble (I swear that is the name signed on this email and yes, it does slightly make me hungry) for sharing the European perspective on this.  

This email inspired me to look into why and when single use items became so common in the United States, because obviously that wasn’t always the case.  But before we jump into that, let’s set a few things straight:

1.  As Cookie Crumble stated, not all Americans are blazing through disposable wipes, plates, cups, etc. Many of us are scandalized by the notion of cleaning up a spill with paper towels rather than just using a reusable cleaning towel.  Many of us were raised washing and reusing aluminum foil, margarine containers, Ziploc bags, etc.  I’m not the only one, right?  And I would hazard a guess that most people ARE trying not to waste these things (even if it’s just for financial reasons), but they probably aren’t thinking about the impact of plastic cups and paper plates at events, right? These things are just so normalized.  More on that in a minute. I do think that it’s kinda easy and scores points on social media to make silly generalizations like “Americans are stupid, Americans are lazy, Americans eat bad food or are ugly or love plastic or all drive huge pickup trucks and love Donald Trump.” Those of us who live here and eat delicious food, avoid plastic, are also upset about huge pickup trucks and well, don’t get us started on Donald Trump…we would like to assure you that the United States are filled with many different kinds of people. Interestingly enough, most of the claims I see of this nature on social media are often made by other Americans, so there’s that, too.
2. For some people, disposable products like plastic utensils, paper plates, and convenience foods with a lot of packaging (like microwave meals and takeout) are unavoidable due to the individual circumstances of their lives, whether that’s financial, lack of time and access, or even just the physical ability to use reusable items. So when we talk about minimizing our use of these kinds of items, it’s important to remember that not everyone has that option. And that’s okay. For those of us who DO have that option, it’s time for us to do things differently.

So when did disposable stuff become deeply ingrained in day-to-day life here in the US?

It all starts with plastic.  Plastic is so ubiquitous, it’s hard to imagine a world without it.  I try to avoid new plastic items as much as possible, but even sitting here in my office, I can see it all around me in different ways.  The body of my wireless mouse.  All of the cables and plugs for my devices.  My calculator. The protective shell on my external hard drive.  The handles on my scissors.  All of my pens. While I’m no fan of plastic, I can also see how the invention and fine tuning of plastic has made a lot of things possible in our day to day lives, particularly when we talk about technology, medicines, healthcare, cosmetics, etc.

So plastic actually originally meant “pliable and easily shaped.” TBH you can still use it as an adjective in that way.  But for less than a century, it has also referred to a group of materials called polymers.  Polymers are actually long chains of molecules and while yes, plastic is synthetic (more about that in a few), polymers can also be found in nature.  A great example of a natural polymer is cellulose, the materials that comprises cell walls of plants.  And humankind has actually found ways to make things out of cellulose, like…rayon,viscose, and modal. These fabrics are called “man made cellulosics” and making them out of plant fiber is quite a process. That’s a conversation for another episode.

The reason cellulose is so strong is that it is made of a very long chain of molecules.  The polymers that make up plastics (including polyester, acrylic, and nylon fabrics) are made of much longer and complex chains of atoms.  This makes plastics low key last forever and it also makes them more flexible (hence the name “plastic”).  Of course cellulose is biodegradable, while plastics are not.  And plastics are made from petroleum and other fossil fuels, creating massive issues of pollution and carbon footprint.  

If you asked me when and why the first plastics were invented, I would have said probably during World War II.  And that is mostly wrong, but also slightly correct. 

The first synthetic polymer was created in 1869 and it was actually made using cellulose! Back then billiards (aka pool) were growing in popularity.  But there was a problem: billiard balls (and btw this fact makes so sad) were made from ivory.  And with billiards suddenly THE thing to do with one’s spare time, meeting the demand for billiard balls meant slaughtering wild elephants.  And still the industry couldn’t  keep up with the demand.  A New York company offered $10,000 (about $231,000 now) for anyone who could create a substitute for ivory that would be appropriate for billiard balls. American inventor John Welsey Hyatt decided to take the challenge.  He found that by treating cellulose (which he got from cotton fiber) with camphor (an ingredient you might know from having your chest slathered with Vick’s VapoRub as a kid), he could create a plastic  that could be molded into many different shapes.  And with the right amount of paint and color, it could mimic all kinds of natural materials, like ivory and tortoiseshell.  This material was called celluloid.  

The invention of celluloid was a very big deal that cannot be overstated. For the first time ever, human manufacturing was no longer limited by availability of a material in nature.  In the case of billiard supply companies, they were no longer reliant on the availability of elephants and their tusks.  Now they could make as many billiard balls as their customers wanted. It turned out that celluloid wasn’t great for billiard balls, so Hyatt never won that $10,000 prize, but it was great for so many items, like combs, piano keys, handles on bags, and so much more.   This meant businesses could grow and grow and grow, unhampered by nature. Furthermore, celluloid was way less expensive than naturally occurring (and scarce) materials like ivory or tortoiseshell, which meant that products could be less expensive.  And that meant that more people could afford them.  So in general, celluloid opened up an era of increased manufacturing and consumption.

When you think about it, it kind of sets us up for late stage capitalism.

Now in 2024, we can’t talk about plastics without talking about oil.  So when did plastics stop being made from cellulose? In 1907, Belgian chemist Leo Baekeland invented Bakelite.  All of you vintage jewelry collectors just got so excited when I said Bakelite!  This was the first fully synthetic plastic.  And when I say that I mean, literally not made of any molecules found in nature.  Bakelite was made of two compounds that were derived from coal tar and wood alcohol (aka methanol).  Believe it or not, Baekeland was not looking to invent cool new jewelry.  He was actually hoping to find a replacement for shellac. Shellac was being used as a natural electric insulator and it was an important part of getting electrical power to homes and businesses.  There just wasn’t enough of it to meet the growing demand, as electricity was spreading across the United States. Bakelite was durable and heat resistant.  It was also a better option for mass production than its predecessor celluloid because it didn’t require plant products.

Now we get to World War II.  Many synthetic materials were sort of born (or at least massively funded) by the United States government during World War II.  The military need for materials like silk, wool, and rubber just could not be filled by these naturally occurring materials.

So we see the United States government working with scientists and companies (like `t) to develop synthetic substitutes for these materials.  In fact DuPont ranked 15th among United States corporations in the value of wartime production contracts. I want you to put a pin in this because we are going to come back to DuPont and the importances of all of that government money for research and development.

DuPont developed nylon as an alternative for silk, and it was used in parachutes and many other military items. Acrylic was developed as an alternative for wool. Great for uniforms for the troops.  DuPont had already developed polyester before the war, and that was a useful material. And of course, DuPont and other companies were developing new plastics that could replace rubber and other materials in every aspect of the war effort.

These companies grew and grew.  And then the war was over. 

It’s not like these companies were going to just say “Okay, well that was nice, we made a lot of money, let’s retire.”

No, they had executives and shareholders to pay.  So this is when they turn their efforts on the average American.  Nylon and acrylic were sold to customers as new miracle fabrics.  Polyester was rebranded as Orlon, Dacron, and Lycra (aka the stretchy stuff that workout clothes and swimwear are still made from today).  Women’s magazines featured full page ads extolling the virtues of these new “space age” miracle fabrics that didn’t shrink, fade or wrinkle.  Because you know, they were plastic.

At the same time DuPont was also selling insecticides and Teflon (non stick coating) and of course, both of these products were later (much later) discovered to be wildly carcinogenic.

All of the companies that made a ton of money off of plastics and synthetics during the war were spending a lot of time thinking about how to sell more products during peace time.  

In the 1940s, plastics were being hyped as the next big miracle to change human lives forever. And I suppose we can argue that plastics are certainly changing what it means to live on this planet for generations to come. Back then plastics were seen as the solution to all of the challenges humans faced, from healthcare to housing to hunger and poverty.  Plastics were seen as this inexpensive resource that would sort of level set the playing field for everyone. All humans–regardless of their financial means–would live a live of leisure and comfort thanks to plastics. The first National Plastics Exposition was held in New York City in 1946.  Attendees and the press were wowed by what they saw (things we take for granted now):

• Transparent packaging for food (so customers could see the contents)
• Dishes and cups that didn’t break when dropped
• Cleaning implements that were lightweight and easy to clean themselves

In August of 1955, Life magazine published a piece called “Throwaway Living.” I was lucky enough to find this thanks to the New York Public Library’s digital archives (I’m so grateful for libraries).  And first, I have to say that this was my first time really looking through an issue of Life. Like many magazines, it was full of ads. And all of these ads promised (quite frankly) a better life via buying the right products. We’re used to these messages being somewhat more subtle now, but back then, advertising was like “let’s just be blunt here: buy this shit or be sad forever):

• Carnation Instant Chocolate Breakfast promised happy, well nourished children (and the cost savings of being able to buy less milk).
• Sunkist told people to drink lemon in their water every morning to be smarter and full of energy.
• Cannon sheets (now with elastic corners) would save housewives the hard work and strain of lifting the mattress 
• Franco American canned spaghetti and meatballs guaranteed a meal that a family would love, for less than the cost of making one’s own spaghetti and meatballs. 

So it’s not surprise to me that there was an article in Life telling people to get ready for better living through plastic.

Imagine publishing an article now called “Throwaway Living.” It doesn’t sound very appealing, right? Even though we’re still being sold tons of stuff every day that isn’t intended to last long in our lives.

Anyway, the main photo of this piece is a family surrounded by plastic/single use items, including dishes, cutlery, tablecloths, diapers, napkins, a baby bib, foil pans, disposable curtains (wtf), single use buckets, single use vases (again wtf) and more . And the first sentence of the article says “The items flying through the air in this picture would take 40 minutes to clean–except that no housewife need bother. They are meant to be thrown away after use.”  The article shares some of these latest innovations: disposable pet bowls (I don’t think that one caught on), single use foil bakeware (still going strong), and a disposable bbq grill.

At the time, the idea of these disposable items was so wild and new, that it would require a lot of advertising and fluffy press pieces (like this one in Life magazine) to get people on board with buying something that was intended for the trash after one use.  But it sure did work!  Plastic production increased with each passing year (it’s wild to see it on a graph, check out the link in the show notes to see it yourself). Even wilder, 56% of the plastic ever made…was produced in this century! And yeah, the rise of technology in our day to day lives has contributed (phone chargers, keyboards, printers, computers, gadgets of all varieties) and single use plastics are a key component of healthcare (syringes, PPE,  etc) , but it’s also still a big part of these single use products which are still kicking…just think of all of the Starbucks cups and lids, water/soda bottles, and take out packaging. 44% of the plastic produced each year is for packaging. 7% is household use.

Plastic is BIG money! It’s big money for companies that make it and it’s big money for the companies selling fossil fuels. In fact, going back to DuPont again…In 1981, the company bought Conoco Inc, a major gas and oil company. This gave the company its own steady supply of ingredients for making plastics.  This also made DuPont one of the top ten U.S.-based petroleum and natural gas producers and refiners. You can’t have plastic without oil.  It’s no wonder that these two industries colluded to hide the reality of plastic recycling from us for decades. The reality (in case you haven’t heard)? Only 9% of the plastic ever made has been recycled. 19% has been incinerated. The rest is in the landfill. Plastic recycling is essentially a myth as most plastic fibers can only be recycled one time (at most) and virgin (brand new) fibers usually need to be added in order to prevent the plastic from falling apart. 

It’s fascinating to look at advertising of the 50s and 60s that focus on plastic products.

All promise housewives that they will keep their families safer, save time, and save money by using plastic wrap, plastic cups, plastic plates, and so on.  Foods wrapped in plastic wrap were guaranteed to be fresher and more desirable. Plastic containers were easier to clean.  And anything difficult to clean (like bakeware) could just be tossed out.  Over time, these ads became fact to many of us.  Paper plates ARE convenient.  Plastic utensils DO seem cleaner. Food wrapped in plastic DOES seem fresher.  And now we are what, 3-4 generations deep into the single use plastic way of life?

And let’s face it, there is something appealing about a package of paper napkins that have a special print or color for your event.  Ziploc bags do feel kind luxurious and convenient.  Red Solo cups mean easier cleanup (and having more fun before and after the party).  I get it.

But ultimately, Throwaway Living was a scam. It was a great way to make a small group of people really rich.  It was an exceptional way to pollute our planet and fuel climate change. But did it really make our lives more convenient? Are we really happier with plastic cups and those disposable cleaning wipes?

The thing is…just because something seems like it has “always” been done a certain way and it’s the “only” way to do things…well, we know that’s not true.  In fact, I just told you that plastic disposable stuff wasn’t always the way people lived.  And we have this amazing opportunity to find new solutions, new ways of doing things that might not actually be that new!

What can we do to break up with these disposable items? 

• Opt for reusable items like cleaning towels/rags rather than paper towels and those wipes that come in the plastic containers. If you–like me–have worked in an office where those are the only cleaning products provided, ask if the company can offer a less wasteful option for keeping the office clean.
• Look for food that has the least amount of packaging.  I know that feels impossible sometimes.  This is a particularly challenging area for me.
• Maybe consider using refillable products and visiting a refillery instead of buying items in disposable plastic packaging.  Or try a company like Vellum Street (I’m a big fan) that packages everything in upcycled glass vessels.
• For events, do what we did for the Jamboree and use actual plates, utensils, and fabric napkins. If you don’t have enough on your own, borrow from your friends or family.  
• And most importantly, brag about what you are doing to other people. Lead by example! Show that there is this different way of doing things that isn’t arduous or miserable or unaesthetic. 

Thank you to Cookie Crumble for sending me down this rabbit hole of research, a journey into plastics, capitalism, and post-war American culture.  I think a lot about how selling the idea of convenience to American housewives in the 50s and 60s via appliances, instant foods, and disposable items also allowed other industries to pop up to sell women diet pills, makeup, more clothes, and even cookbooks to make complicated dishes out of instant foods in disposable cookware.  It’s definitely something I would love to dig into in a future episode of the podcast, so let me know if that’s interesting to you.

And if you want to share your experiences with plastic cups and disposable cleaning wipes in your country, drop me an email or an audio message at [email protected].

Okay, now let’s talk about another thing that we can do as individuals within our community that can really change the status quo of shop—>wear—->donation bin or landfill…and that’s clothing swaps.  Let’s meet Sam!

Thank you, to Sam for sharing her expertise with us.  I’m so excited about what she is doing with Be Reworn!  I am going to share all of her info in the show notes, so if you are thinking about doing your own clothing swap and you could use some guidance, reach out to her for a one-on-one.  Also, give Be Reworn a follow on instagram and check out the platform.  Let’s make clothing swaps a regular part of our lives!

That’s all for this week’s episode. I’ll be back next week to talk all about how to shop secondhand online.  As a reminder, if you have anything to contribute to what we discussed in this episode or about secondhand shopping as a whole, drop me an email (or an audio message) at [email protected]. 

The last thing I’ll say as I wrap up this episode is this:  I am seeing a new recurring theme emerging in the world of Clotheshorse this year and that is challenging the status quo, doing things in a new, different way, and showing others how and why we are doing those things.  Sometimes it’s as simple as wearing the same dress for multiple events.  Other times it’s showing off a mended article of clothing or hosting an event without disposable cups.    It’s funny to call these things a “new” way of doing things, but the reality is that they challenge everything most of us take for granted right now.  They challenge the “normal” way of doing things that late stage capitalism and all of its influencers and listicles show us every day.  It feels good, because it feels like…taking back control of our lives and the world around us.  It feels new and exciting and HOPEFUL.  And I love that.  So keep looking for the new way to do things. Keep showing it to others. If plastic cups could become the norm for decades, then so can something way cooler like visible mending or clothing swaps or upcycling clothing.   I am excited because I feel like we are actively making a difference around us, and those seeds of change–which we have been sowing together– are only going to grow and spread and flourish as we keep on keeping on and bring new people along for the ride.  It’s okay to be excited and optimistic.  I know I am. I hope you are, too.