Episode 18: Copycats (how fast fashion knocks itself off every day)

This is part one of a three part series with our friend Dani from Picnic.  Before she started her own slow fashion brand, she designed sweaters (knitwear) for several fast fashion brands. We already know that fast fashion knocks off everyone, both designers big and small, but did you know that they also knock one another off? Dani explains how this happens and why it is so, so silly.  We also discuss what the internal culture of fast fashion brands is really like and why it’s hard to leave as a designer or merchant.  

Amanda also reminds us of Tuesday Bassen’s fight against Zara.  Articles of Interest has a great interview with her about it.  

We have received a lot of messages about why/how retailers can just cancel orders on vendors (in the wake of Covid) without being sued.   Amanda explains vendor manuals, chargebacks, and the force majeure clause.  You can track who has and has not bowed to pressure to #payup here.  Let’s continue to pressure brands who refuse to #payup…and stop buying stuff from them.  They don’t deserve our money! Let’s give it to brands and designers who do good things! #buylessbuybetter

Do you have a burning question? An episode idea? Feedback? Please reach out via email at [email protected].  And find us on instagram @clotheshorsepodcast.

Don’t forget to check out our sister podcast, The Department!

Want to Support Amanda's Work on Clotheshorse?

If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording:  [email protected]

Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:

Slow Fashion Academy is a size-inclusive sewing and patternmaking studio based in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, founded by designer and fashion professor Ruby Gertz. Ruby just launched CLO3D for Custom Fit: a 12-week beginner-friendly online course in virtual patternmaking with CLO3D software. Instead of making sample after sample, you can now customize avatars that match your real body measurements and fit-test garments virtually—before cutting into a single piece of fabric. You can also work from your pre-existing paper or PDF patterns! 
This course is designed to get you over the initial hump to working confidently in the program. It includes 300+ bite-size video lessons spaced out over 12 weeks, weekly live Q&A calls for accountability, a custom body scan to use as a you-sized virtual dress form, and a super supportive community of like-minded designers that are all learning together in a cohort. Perfect for indie patternmakers, emerging designers, or anyone who wants to design clothes that actually fit their one-of-a-kind body.
 
Learn more about the course, as well as our in-person sewing and patternmaking workshops at www.slowfashion.academy.

Deco Denim is a startup based out of San Francisco, selling clothing and accessories that are sustainable, gender fluid, size inclusive and high quality–made to last for years to come. Deco Denim is trying to change the way you think about buying clothes. Founder Sarah Mattes wants to empower people to ask important questions like, “Where was this made? Was this garment made ethically? Is this fabric made of plastic? Can this garment be upcycled and if not, can it be recycled?” Signup at decodenim.com to receive $20 off your first purchase. They promise not to spam you and send out no more than 3 emails a month, with 2 of them surrounding education or a personal note from the Founder. Find them on Instagram as @deco.denim.

Selina Sanders, a social impact brand that specializes in up-cycled clothing, using only reclaimed, vintage or thrifted materials: from tea towels, linens, blankets and quilts.  Sustainably crafted in Los Angeles, each piece is designed to last in one’s closet for generations to come.  Maximum Style; Minimal Carbon Footprint.

Republica Unicornia Yarns: Hand-Dyed Yarn and notions for the color-obsessed. Made with love and some swearing in fabulous Atlanta, Georgia by Head Yarn Wench Kathleen. Get ready for rainbows with a side of Giving A Damn! Republica Unicornia is all about making your own magic using small-batch, responsibly sourced, hand-dyed yarns and thoughtfully made notions. Slow fashion all the way down and discover the joy of creating your very own beautiful hand knit, crocheted, or woven pieces. Find us on Instagram @republica_unicornia_yarns and at www.republicaunicornia.com.

Cute Little Ruin is an online shop dedicated to providing quality vintage and secondhand clothing, vinyl, and home items in a wide range of styles and price points.  If it’s ethical and legal, we try to find a new home for it!  Vintage style with progressive values.  Find us on Instagram at @CuteLittleRuin.