Episode 237: Billionaire Boycott List, with Ariel of Cobbled Goods

Would you be surprised to hear that your favorite shoe brand is neither family-owned nor as punk as it portrays itself to be?
Did you know that wealth inequality and shoes are directly connected? 
Could your latest shoe purchase be subsidizing lobbying efforts to fight a rise in the minimum wage or reduce taxes for the wealthiest people?

Amanda is joined by Ariel, the founder of Cobbled Goods to talk about how shoes, wealth inequality, and politics are entangled.  He will introduce us to his Billionaire Boycott List.  In this episode, we will also cover the following topics:
 
  • The environmental and ethical impacts of shoe production
  • Common greenwashing tropes used by the shoe industry
  • Who really owns a lot of the shoe companies that we might think of “heritage” brands or “countercultural”
  • How you can make better decisions when shopping for a new pair of shoes
  • And how where, when, and how often you shop are political decisions!
 
One of my favourite books, written by Marjorie Kelly. She really has her finger on the heart of the issue. I’d recommend listeners start by checking out her podcast interviews. I also have to add my first encounter with her work, which rocked my world — The Architecture of Enterprise: Redesigning Ownership for a Great Transition.
 
An incredible first-person look into shoe production around the world. Tansy Hoskins also has a great newsletter.
 
I didn’t mention this but I hosted a speculative fiction workshop last fall with Tansy and few other footwear founders where everyone shared their ideas on what the industry would look like in a world with big businesses. It ties in nicely with our conversation and the boycott list.
 
The Channel 4 investigation into recycled ocean plastic. I actually confused Nike and Adidas on the episode. Both brands are covered but the ocean plastic bit was about Adidas. The original broadcast is not available on demand: But there is an article with part of the video here: https://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-10821693/Channel-4s-Dispatches-reveals-greenwashing-trainer-brands.html 
 
A very compelling report on greenwashing through certifications and standards. I alluded to it a bit with the HIGG index, but I meant to dive deeper because it is highly prevalent.
 
A report on how big brands dodge accountability to the workers making their products. It gives estimates on how many millions of dollars different brands owe the workers that were laid off without severance due to their cancelled orders during Covid.
 
A thorough report mapping out leather supply chains connected to Amazon deforestation.


ALSO: get your tickets for Clotheshorse LIVE!

10/23  Seattle, WA @ Here-After
10/26  Portland, OR @ Holocene

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Transcript

Welcome to Clotheshorse, the podcast that woke up at dawn to record in an effort to beat the heat!

 

I’m your host, Amanda and this is episode 237. 

Would you be surprised to hear that your favorite shoe brand is neither as countercultural/punk as it portrays itself to be nor family owned?

What if I told you that wealth inequality and shoes are directly connected? 

What if I told you that your latest shoe purchase may have subsidized lobbying efforts to fight a rise in the minimum wage or reduce taxes for the wealthiest people?

 

 My guest this week is Ariel, the founder of Cobbled Goods, an incredible online resource for finding ethically, sustainably made footwear…which can be quite a difficult undertaking! Ariel recently launched a “Billionaire Boycott List” that shows (and names) the popular shoe brands that are actually owned by billionaires, along with other details about the companies’ CEO pay, political involvement, wage theft, and so much more.  And I have to say, when you dig in to who owns what shoe brands, it’s wayyyyy murkier (and surprising) than apparel. 

 

So we’re going to share all of the bad news about shoes this week, along with how you can make better decisions about the shoes you do buy (and why that matters).  We will also explore how where, when, and how often you shop are political decisions!

 

Before we jump into my conversation with Ariel, I have a big announcement!!

 

Clotheshorse is coming to the West Coast in October, and I’m doing two live shows

 

🐴 Thursday, October 23, Seattle WA at Here-After, 

🐴 Sunday, October 26, Portland, OR at Holocene, 

 

There are only about 100 tickets available for each show, so do not procrastinate! Links are in the show notes

 

Live Clotheshorse episodes follow the classic 90s talk show format (minus the paternity tests and ripped shirts): We get to talk to a variety of cool guests and audience questions/comments are an important part of the whole experience!

 

SEATTLE: I am still finalizing this show but the tentative theme is “How you as an individual can make a difference in your community”

PORTLAND: Rebuilding and Reimagining: Bringing back sewing as a common skill. This episode will get started with a little walkthrough of where and how sewing became a less common skill here in the United States and why/how the removal of home economics education from school curriculums actually fueled increased consumerism (and maybe, just maybe helped “fast casual” restaurants become massive chains).

 

And I can officially announce the guests:

  • The best sewist I know, my stepmother Karen McCarty.  She’s going to tell us about how she–as a baby boomer–learned how to sew and how that skill has impacted her entire life.
  • The owner/designer of Altar, a clothing brand and boutique based in Portland, Cassie Ridgway. We are going to talk about how and why she learned to sew and the challenges of manufacturing clothing here in the United States.
  • And Frances Andonopoulos, the founder/director of Sincere Studio, Portland’s first and only non-profit community sewing studio.! They are going to explain why they were motivated to start Sincere Studio and why teaching sewing in 2025 is an extremely important and radical act! Also: Frances and I are working on a Halloween-themed sewing event at Sincere Studio on 10/25. Stay tuned for more details!

Okay, go get your tickets!

 

Alright, listen it’s already getting hot in my office here at Clotheshorse World HQ so let’s jump into my conversation with Ariel!

Thanks to Ariel for spending some time with us.  I urge all of you to go check out Cobbled Goods. For one, to see the billionaire boycott list (get ready to be shocked by some of those shoe brands). But also, to look for more sustainable alternatives.  And he even has resources for finding secondhand shoes.  I have always found shoes to be the most challenging piece of the slow fashion way of life, so his work is so valuable!

 

And speaking of valuable work, now is the time where I remind you again….the seemingly small things that you do every day are very important, super radical, and most definitely making a difference…even when that day’s media cycle feels overwhelming and massive.

 

So this morning, I woke up super early to record before the sun started its nefarious work (jk I love the sun because it is making my garden grow so much right now).  I grabbed my phone almost immediately after I opened my eyes…and I was greeted by a link from Dylan, my kid. It linked to an article from the local newspaper where I grew up…and the story was essentially about my grandmother’s house being burned down by some children who rolled a lawnmower up to her fence, and lit the gas tank on fire? Yeah, I’m not sure what happened there. But wow, what the fuck.  My family has in one way or another lived in that house–a small rowhome in a now “not very nice” part of town for like 70 years.  So now it’s gone.  But for me…this was just an overwhelming emotional bomb hitting me first thing in the morning.  I have been no-contact with my mother since 2019 (for many, many very good reasons), and as part of that shift in my life, it meant I could no longer be in touch my grandma (who like any good mother, had to be loyal to her child). That’s been really difficult for me because my grandma was the light in my life growing up.  I strongly believe she is the reason I made it to adulthood.  To know that her house is gone, that there is nothing I can really do to help without getting involved in that family again (which I just cannot do)…well, it’s a lot.  I’m telling you this very private, personal thing (sorry Julie) because one, I want to be clear that going “no contact” with a parent is neither easy nor a “fix.” It’s just harm reduction. Please do not send me advice about this. The other reason I’m sharing this is because…wow, it is sometimes just so hard to get up and do the work of fighting for a better world.  It’s harder than ever this year…because…well, you know.  But then, there will be another wild card situation that pulls the scabs off your emotional wounds AND maybe you (like me) also have an ear infection that kept you up half the night.  Fun times. 

But as I pulled myself out of my bed, I reminded myself that the world (including me) is only doomed if we do nothing.  Much like an ear infection will go away if you see a doctor and get medication…but it will rage out of control to a point of no return if you kinda just throw your hands in the air and say “well, i’ll just get another ear infection in the future, so why bother dealing with this one.” It reminds me of the moments when my depression has been at its worst, when the thought of washing my hair felt like the greatest chore because I would just have to wash it many times in the future.

 

The fight never ends. I don’t know if life ever gets “easy,” per se. But it can be better. LIfe can be better for everyone and every living thing.  And that’s what gets me up every morning, that’s what reminds me that while there will always be something to “fix,” something to protest, someone somewhere that needs help…nothing changes if we do nothing right now.

 

This week, Rebecca of Old Flame Mending (an early guest on Clotheshorse) announced that the business will be closing its doors.  It was just too difficult to make the math work for the business, in a world where it is shockingly difficult to get people to pay to have their clothing repaired, much less to get them to pay a fair price for it.  As I saw that news appear in my feed, I felt so sad. Because I have felt (and observed) this growing sense of scarcity in the sustainability/slow fashion world.  It’s kind of impossible to make a living out of getting people to buy less stuff, whether that’s via repair services, teaching people how to do these things themselves, or even writing and sharing information about it.  And this sense of scarcity…well, it ends businesses.  It creates a sense of competition in a community that really needs all-hands-on-deck collaboration from everyone. There is a very well known person in the world of sustainability who has been blocking all of us who share information and education on social media because they feel that because they talked about it first, that the rest of us are copying them by talking about it now.

 

Here’s what I have to say about that: yes, there is a scarcity of money and paying work in this space. I am only able to do Clotheshorse because I also work a full time job that supports me, pays my kid’s tuition, and buys a lot of cat food. It’s a difficult balance and there are many, many days where I can’t make the basic math of TIME work in my favor.  But this is important to me, for all of the reasons I explained earlier.  And yes, while there is financial scarcity in the world of slow fashion, of building a better future, of standing up for what is right…there is an abundance of people, passion, community, and care.  And that means…there is also an abundance of POWER and the STRENGTH of many rad, smart, passionate people working together toward a common goal.  That means change can happen if we stick with it.  And what and how we do that along the way might change, but what remains consistent is that we are there, doing it. 

 

I want to share what I commented on Rebecca’s post about closing Old Flame Mending:

 

And I mean that with all of my heart. I am so proud of what Rebecca has done and how many people she has inspired over the past few years. I know that the work of Old Flame Mending has literally changed lives as people carry Rebecca’s message and work into their future decisions and conversations.  Mending IS  a radical act in the fast fashion world that we live in now.  What Old Flame Mending was doing was more than just repairing clothes, it was making a political statement against hyperconsumerism and quasi disposable clothing.  



I am so proud of all of you who wake up every day, ready to actively do good things for the world around you…even when it is difficult and scary. Even when you are tired or sad or sick. And fighting for a better world comes in many forms: Protesting. Calling/emailing your elected representatives. Getting food, books, and healthcare to our communities. Educating others. Speaking up. Boycotting. Donating. Running for office. Shopping local and small. That’s just the beginning of the long list of things you can (and are) doing.

 

As I have been saying a lot this year: I believe in you.  I believe in me. And I believe in us. Let’s keep doing what we’re doing. Things WILL get better.

Want to Support Amanda's Work on Clotheshorse?

If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording:  [email protected]

Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:

Slow Fashion Academy is a size-inclusive sewing and patternmaking studio based in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Designer and fashion professor Ruby Gertz teaches workshops for hobbyists and aspiring designers, so that anyone can learn the foundational skills of making, mending, and altering their own clothes. Ruby also provides professional design and patternmaking services to emerging slow fashion brands, and occasionally takes commissions for custom garments and costume pieces. She has also released several PDF sewing patterns for original designs under her brands Spokes & Stitches, and Starling Petite Plus. Check the schedule for upcoming workshops, download PDF sewing patterns, and learn about additional sewing and design services at www.slowfashion.academy.

Thumbprint is Detroit’s only fair trade marketplace, located in the historic Eastern Market.  Our small business specializes in products handmade by empowered women in South Africa making a living wage creating things they love like hand painted candles and ceramics! We also carry a curated assortment of  sustainable/natural locally made goods. Thumbprint is a great gift destination for both the special people in your life and for yourself! Browse our online store at thumbprintdetroit.com and find us on instagram @thumbprintdetroit.

Picnicwear:  a slow fashion brand, ethically made by hand from vintage and deadstock materials – most notably, vintage towels! Founder, Dani, has worked in the industry as a fashion designer for over 10 years, but started Picnicwear in response to her dissatisfaction with the industry’s shortcomings. Picnicwear recently moved to rural North Carolina where all their clothing and accessories are now designed and cut, but the majority of their sewing is done by skilled garment workers in NYC. Their customers take comfort in knowing that all their sewists are paid well above NYC minimum wage. Picnicwear offers minimal waste and maximum authenticity: Future Vintage over future garbage.

Shift Clothing, out of beautiful Astoria, Oregon, with a focus on natural fibers, simple hardworking designs, and putting fat people first.  Discover more at shiftwheeler.com

High Energy Vintage is a fun and funky vintage shop located in Somerville, MA, just a few minutes away from downtown Boston. They offer a highly curated selection of bright and colorful clothing and accessories from the 1940s-1990s for people of all genders. Husband-and-wife duo Wiley & Jessamy handpick each piece for quality and style, with a focus on pieces that transcend trends and will find a home in your closet for many years to come! In addition to clothing, the shop also features a large selection of vintage vinyl and old school video games. Find them on instagram @ highenergyvintage, online at highenergyvintage.com, and at markets in and around Boston.

St. Evens is an NYC-based vintage shop that is dedicated to bringing you those special pieces you’ll reach for again and again. More than just a store, St. Evens is dedicated to sharing the stories and history behind the garments. 10% of all sales are donated to a different charitable organization each month.  New vintage is released every Thursday at wearStEvens.com, with previews of new pieces and more brought to you on Instagram at @wear_st.evens.

Deco Denim is a startup based out of San Francisco, selling clothing and accessories that are sustainable, gender fluid, size inclusive and high quality–made to last for years to come. Deco Denim is trying to change the way you think about buying clothes. Founder Sarah Mattes wants to empower people to ask important questions like, “Where was this made? Was this garment made ethically? Is this fabric made of plastic? Can this garment be upcycled and if not, can it be recycled?” Signup at decodenim.com to receive $20 off your first purchase. They promise not to spam you and send out no more than 3 emails a month, with 2 of them surrounding education or a personal note from the Founder. Find them on Instagram as @deco.denim.

The Pewter Thimble Is there a little bit of Italy in your soul? Are you an enthusiast of pre-loved decor and accessories? Bring vintage Italian style — and history — into your space with The Pewter Thimble (@thepewterthimble). We source useful and beautiful things, and mend them where needed. We also find gorgeous illustrations, and make them print-worthy. Tarot cards, tea towels and handpicked treasures, available to you from the comfort of your own home. Responsibly sourced from across Rome, lovingly renewed by fairly paid artists and artisans, with something for every budget. Discover more at thepewterthimble.com

Blank Cass, or Blanket Coats by Cass, is focused on restoring, renewing, and reviving the history held within vintage and heirloom textiles. By embodying and transferring the love, craft, and energy that is original to each vintage textile into a new garment, I hope we can reteach ourselves to care for and mend what we have and make it last. Blank Cass lives on Instagram @blank_cass and a website will be launched soon at blankcass.com.

Vagabond Vintage DTLV is a vintage clothing, accessories & decor reselling business based in Downtown Las Vegas. Not only do we sell in Las Vegas, but we are also located throughout resale markets in San Francisco as well as at a curated boutique called Lux and Ivy located in Indianapolis, Indiana. Jessica, the founder & owner of Vagabond Vintage DTLV, recently opened the first IRL location located in the Arts District of Downtown Las Vegas on August 5th. The shop has a strong emphasis on 60s & 70s garments, single stitch tee shirts & dreamy loungewear. Follow them on instagram, @vagabondvintage.dtlv and keep an eye out for their website coming fall of 2022.

Country Feedback is a mom & pop record shop in Tarboro, North Carolina. They specialize in used rock, country, and soul and offer affordable vintage clothing and housewares. Do you have used records you want to sell? Country Feedback wants to buy them! Find us on Instagram @countryfeedbackvintageandvinyl or head downeast and visit our brick and mortar. All are welcome at this inclusive and family-friendly record shop in the country!

Located in Whistler, Canada, Velvet Underground is a “velvet jungle” full of vintage and second-hand clothes, plants, a vegan cafe and lots of rad products from other small sustainable businesses. Our mission is to create a brand and community dedicated to promoting self-expression, as well as educating and inspiring a more sustainable and conscious lifestyle both for the people and the planet. Find us on Instagram @shop_velvetunderground or online at www.shopvelvetunderground.com

Selina Sanders, a social impact brand that specializes in up-cycled clothing, using only reclaimed, vintage or thrifted materials: from tea towels, linens, blankets and quilts.  Sustainably crafted in Los Angeles, each piece is designed to last in one’s closet for generations to come.  Maximum Style; Minimal Carbon Footprint.

Salt Hats:  purveyors of truly sustainable hats. Hand blocked, sewn and embellished in Detroit, Michigan.

Republica Unicornia Yarns: Hand-Dyed Yarn and notions for the color-obsessed. Made with love and some swearing in fabulous Atlanta, Georgia by Head Yarn Wench Kathleen. Get ready for rainbows with a side of Giving A Damn! Republica Unicornia is all about making your own magic using small-batch, responsibly sourced, hand-dyed yarns and thoughtfully made notions. Slow fashion all the way down and discover the joy of creating your very own beautiful hand knit, crocheted, or woven pieces. Find us on Instagram @republica_unicornia_yarns and at www.republicaunicornia.com.

Cute Little Ruin is an online shop dedicated to providing quality vintage and secondhand clothing, vinyl, and home items in a wide range of styles and price points.  If it’s ethical and legal, we try to find a new home for it!  Vintage style with progressive values.  Find us on Instagram at @CuteLittleRuin.