Episode 225: Slow Fashion & Inclusivity Round Table

This is part four in a continuing series about slow fashion and inclusivity. Amanda is joined by some rad people doing great work making slow fashion more inclusive:

Itohan Asemota is the founder of HNI Collective, a Philadelphia-based fashion service agency with a focus on size inclusivity and sustainability. Find Itohan on Instagram: @itsitohanhey

Marlee Rosen is a slow fashion personal style coach and the host of Style Me Slowly Podcast, where she features size inclusive, slow fashion brands and designers. Find Marlee on Instagram: @stylemeslowly

Nico Herzetty is the founder and CEO of Phoria, ” a platform to help people find what fits their bodies, their style, and their priorities—and how we can support each other in that journey.” Find Phoria on Instagram: @phoriafits

Donnelle Jageman is the founder of The Plus Swap and a cofounder of Philly FatCon.  Find Philly FatCon on Instagram:  @phillyfatcon

Maggie Greene (aka the Halloween Queen) is the Chief Everything Officer of Self Magnitude, an ethical microbusiness on a mission to transform how you see yourself by putting the personal in brand and style. Maggie helps leaders, entrepreneurs, and individual contributors of all gender expressions show up as their radically authentic selves, at work and in life, with confidence and without compromising their core values and ethics. 

In this episode we will discuss the following:
  • Why so many new fast fashion brands have adopted the SHEIN model specifically to target plus size American women…and why that’s not a good thing…
  • Why a lot of slow fashion marketing can feel a lot like regular old fast fashion marketing
  • What we can learn from big brands that have totally blown their foray into extended sizing
  • How understanding our own personal style can help us slow down our shopping
  • And of course, how we can support slow fashion brands that are truly trying to be as inclusive as possible.

 

 

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Transcript

Thanks to everyone for spending so much time with me over the past two months, as we put together this episode and their individual conversations with me.  I am so grateful for Maggie, Itohan, Marlee, Donnelle, and Nico. If you are not following all of them on social media yet…well what are you doing? You’ll find links for finding all of them in the show notes.

 

I realize that this conversation did not capture all of the ways in which slow fashion can be more inclusive, and that’s okay, because I see it as the beginning of a much longer conversation that will continue well into the future. We will be revisiting this topic from different angles throughout this year.

 

It probably sounds silly at first pass, but conversations like this are actually pretty radical and revolutionary.  We’re pushing back on an entire ecosystem of business, marketing, and social norms that isn’t…well, it’s just not inclusive of most people.  I mean, we’re watching the dismantling of DEI (diversity, equity, and inclusion) policies here in the United States that provide equal access to resources and opportunities. It’s so strange to see DEI as the new “moral panic” of the 2020s and it’s just as silly as the Satanic Panic of the 1980s.  But in this case, this moral panic is far more harmful. 

 

So yeah, talking about making access to clothing, good quality, ethically made clothing easier for more people…it’s pretty radical and political at this point. 

 

Earlier this week I received a comment on an instagram post that basically told me to stop talking about political things. The commenter actually said that they unfollow sustainable fashion accounts who don’t stick to their niche by talking about politics.  The commenter went on to say that these creators “use their followers as an outlet for their personal feelings.”

 

Jeez louise.

 

As Christine of Lady Hogg Vintage reminded me this week, one of the original Clotheshorse slogans was “the personal is political.” And of course, that remains true.  I’m here to tell you that most likely every aspect of your life is political in nature. As a nonbinary person assigned female at birth living here in the United States, everything about my day-to-day existence is political:

The control of my own body, the kind of healthcare I can access and afford, the kinds of jobs I am offered (and how much I will be paid), where I do and do not feel safe…and that’s just the beginning. So many seemingly minor moments in my life only radicalized me more: catcalls in the streets. Creepy dudes. Finding out I was paid 20% less than my male counterpart.  Being treated like crap at my low paying retail and service jobs. Being treated like crap at my slightly better paying corporate jobs.  My struggles finding healthcare as a cancer survivor.  The way I was treated as a single parent after my daughter was born.  To be honest, my life has been political since the moment I was born into a low income family to a teenage mother. 

 

When we talk about slow fashion being political…well, OF COURSE it is political.  Think about all of the issues it encompasses: water use and pollution, land use and agriculture, forestry oversight, wealth inequality, carbon emissions, waste colonialism,  plastic pollution, fossil fuels, workers rights, women’s rights, classism, racism, fatphobia (all the bad phobias and isms)…and of course, the need for policies and laws to regulate this currently largely unregulated industry.

 

So yeah, talking about slow fashion, being a part of the slow fashion community…it is incredibly political.

 

That’s why I am always reminding you every day that all of the things you are doing that seem small, sort of minor in their impact, are actually wildly radical and revolutionary: 

  • Mending, repairing, making things last as long as possible…and that includes things like taking laundry very seriously and working on stain removal.
  • Sharing these skills with other people!
  • Making your own clothing and other items.
  • Shopping secondhand. Or maybe you are a secondhand dealer, rescuing things from the landfill, repairing/cleaning them, and then giving them a new life with someone else.
  • Resisting marketing messages that tell you to buy more, more, and more stuff. And instead, doing the work to untangle your own relationship with shopping and consumerism.
  • Shopping small and local when you can.
  • Learning…and then sharing what you have learned with others.
  • Holding on to our hope and pragmatic optimism…and sharing it with others who need a little refill of it.

 

All of these things are important parts of driving resistance and change. They are revolutionary, radical, and…political!  I don’t know about you, but I am constantly being told by people who literally do not know what they are talking about that clothing is silly, unimportant, that I should focus my activism elsewhere.  As if it’s ever been “just clothes.” It’s all of the issues I shared earlier, and more.  It impacts everyone on this planet. And it’s tangled with so many other important issues that we all face every day that are most definitely political.

 

So yeah, I’m going to stay political and I hope you will too. Despite it feeling like the world is falling into pieces at this very moment, I still feel the faith, that strong belief that we will get through this and come out of the other side of it in a much better place.  I’m looking forward to seeing you next to me on that journey.

Want to Support Amanda's Work on Clotheshorse?

If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording:  [email protected]

Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:

Thumbprint is Detroit’s only fair trade marketplace, located in the historic Eastern Market.  Our small business specializes in products handmade by empowered women in South Africa making a living wage creating things they love like hand painted candles and ceramics! We also carry a curated assortment of  sustainable/natural locally made goods. Thumbprint is a great gift destination for both the special people in your life and for yourself! Browse our online store at thumbprintdetroit.com and find us on instagram @thumbprintdetroit.

Picnicwear:  a slow fashion brand, ethically made by hand from vintage and deadstock materials – most notably, vintage towels! Founder, Dani, has worked in the industry as a fashion designer for over 10 years, but started Picnicwear in response to her dissatisfaction with the industry’s shortcomings. Picnicwear recently moved to rural North Carolina where all their clothing and accessories are now designed and cut, but the majority of their sewing is done by skilled garment workers in NYC. Their customers take comfort in knowing that all their sewists are paid well above NYC minimum wage. Picnicwear offers minimal waste and maximum authenticity: Future Vintage over future garbage.

Shift Clothing, out of beautiful Astoria, Oregon, with a focus on natural fibers, simple hardworking designs, and putting fat people first.  Discover more at shiftwheeler.com

High Energy Vintage is a fun and funky vintage shop located in Somerville, MA, just a few minutes away from downtown Boston. They offer a highly curated selection of bright and colorful clothing and accessories from the 1940s-1990s for people of all genders. Husband-and-wife duo Wiley & Jessamy handpick each piece for quality and style, with a focus on pieces that transcend trends and will find a home in your closet for many years to come! In addition to clothing, the shop also features a large selection of vintage vinyl and old school video games. Find them on instagram @ highenergyvintage, online at highenergyvintage.com, and at markets in and around Boston.

St. Evens is an NYC-based vintage shop that is dedicated to bringing you those special pieces you’ll reach for again and again. More than just a store, St. Evens is dedicated to sharing the stories and history behind the garments. 10% of all sales are donated to a different charitable organization each month.  New vintage is released every Thursday at wearStEvens.com, with previews of new pieces and more brought to you on Instagram at @wear_st.evens.

Deco Denim is a startup based out of San Francisco, selling clothing and accessories that are sustainable, gender fluid, size inclusive and high quality–made to last for years to come. Deco Denim is trying to change the way you think about buying clothes. Founder Sarah Mattes wants to empower people to ask important questions like, “Where was this made? Was this garment made ethically? Is this fabric made of plastic? Can this garment be upcycled and if not, can it be recycled?” Signup at decodenim.com to receive $20 off your first purchase. They promise not to spam you and send out no more than 3 emails a month, with 2 of them surrounding education or a personal note from the Founder. Find them on Instagram as @deco.denim.

The Pewter Thimble Is there a little bit of Italy in your soul? Are you an enthusiast of pre-loved decor and accessories? Bring vintage Italian style — and history — into your space with The Pewter Thimble (@thepewterthimble). We source useful and beautiful things, and mend them where needed. We also find gorgeous illustrations, and make them print-worthy. Tarot cards, tea towels and handpicked treasures, available to you from the comfort of your own home. Responsibly sourced from across Rome, lovingly renewed by fairly paid artists and artisans, with something for every budget. Discover more at thepewterthimble.com

Blank Cass, or Blanket Coats by Cass, is focused on restoring, renewing, and reviving the history held within vintage and heirloom textiles. By embodying and transferring the love, craft, and energy that is original to each vintage textile into a new garment, I hope we can reteach ourselves to care for and mend what we have and make it last. Blank Cass lives on Instagram @blank_cass and a website will be launched soon at blankcass.com.

Vagabond Vintage DTLV is a vintage clothing, accessories & decor reselling business based in Downtown Las Vegas. Not only do we sell in Las Vegas, but we are also located throughout resale markets in San Francisco as well as at a curated boutique called Lux and Ivy located in Indianapolis, Indiana. Jessica, the founder & owner of Vagabond Vintage DTLV, recently opened the first IRL location located in the Arts District of Downtown Las Vegas on August 5th. The shop has a strong emphasis on 60s & 70s garments, single stitch tee shirts & dreamy loungewear. Follow them on instagram, @vagabondvintage.dtlv and keep an eye out for their website coming fall of 2022.

Country Feedback is a mom & pop record shop in Tarboro, North Carolina. They specialize in used rock, country, and soul and offer affordable vintage clothing and housewares. Do you have used records you want to sell? Country Feedback wants to buy them! Find us on Instagram @countryfeedbackvintageandvinyl or head downeast and visit our brick and mortar. All are welcome at this inclusive and family-friendly record shop in the country!

Located in Whistler, Canada, Velvet Underground is a “velvet jungle” full of vintage and second-hand clothes, plants, a vegan cafe and lots of rad products from other small sustainable businesses. Our mission is to create a brand and community dedicated to promoting self-expression, as well as educating and inspiring a more sustainable and conscious lifestyle both for the people and the planet. Find us on Instagram @shop_velvetunderground or online at www.shopvelvetunderground.com

Selina Sanders, a social impact brand that specializes in up-cycled clothing, using only reclaimed, vintage or thrifted materials: from tea towels, linens, blankets and quilts.  Sustainably crafted in Los Angeles, each piece is designed to last in one’s closet for generations to come.  Maximum Style; Minimal Carbon Footprint.

Salt Hats:  purveyors of truly sustainable hats. Hand blocked, sewn and embellished in Detroit, Michigan.

Republica Unicornia Yarns: Hand-Dyed Yarn and notions for the color-obsessed. Made with love and some swearing in fabulous Atlanta, Georgia by Head Yarn Wench Kathleen. Get ready for rainbows with a side of Giving A Damn! Republica Unicornia is all about making your own magic using small-batch, responsibly sourced, hand-dyed yarns and thoughtfully made notions. Slow fashion all the way down and discover the joy of creating your very own beautiful hand knit, crocheted, or woven pieces. Find us on Instagram @republica_unicornia_yarns and at www.republicaunicornia.com.

Cute Little Ruin is an online shop dedicated to providing quality vintage and secondhand clothing, vinyl, and home items in a wide range of styles and price points.  If it’s ethical and legal, we try to find a new home for it!  Vintage style with progressive values.  Find us on Instagram at @CuteLittleRuin.