This is a post about synthetic fabrics that are substitutes for animal-derived versions: suede and fur. Next week I’m going to talk about pleather (faux leather).
Sometimes faux fur and suede are made from recycled plastics. But they are still not biodegradable, they shed microplastics, and they will live in the landfill for centuries. Compostable/biodegradable options are in development, but no brands are using them. I suspect that is because these fabrics are “too expensive” to fit into fashion’s aggressive pricing model.
Regardless of what you choose to wear, I want you to recognize that it is not disposable (nothing is) and make it last/get as much wear out of it!
This is not a post about the ethics of fur and leather. I am not covering real fur/leather in this post because this is part 6 of a series about synthetic fabrics. This is intended as a resource for learning more about synthetic fabrics and how to mitigate their impact on the planet.
I am always super nervous about discussing fake leather, fur, and suede because these conversations can bring out the worst in people. In 2021, I posted about “vegan leather” being plastic and I received a litany of hateful messages, including some wishing for my death and torture. Someone else found my phone number (yes, my personal phone) on the internet and sent me threatening texts. If you know me IRL, you know I’m obsessed with animals and I’ve been volunteering in animal rescue since I was a teenager. I personally do not buy new leather and fur (it doesn’t align with my values), but I do have a blue suede coat from the 70s that I have been caring for and repairing for years and years. I also have a denim coat with a faux fur collar that I brush before I leave the house.
Thanks in advance for being respectful and constructive.
When we talk about the reality of “vegan” textile options like faux fur or faux suede, it is not a “gotcha” moment attack on veganism. A plant-based diet (if done thoughtfully) can have a lower environmental impact than diets that contain animal products.
What you eat is a very personal decision…and clothing should be approached the same way!
This post is part of a longer series unpacking and explaining synthetic fabrics. Many (but not all) cruelty free fur, suede, and leather alternatives are synthetic materials, made with fossil fuels.
Faux fur is made of synthetic polymers, including acrylics, modacrylics, and polyester (sometimes a blend of all of these or two of them). These polymers are made of fossil fuels and require a great deal of energy and water for creation.
The polymers can be either a powder or pellet form. They are melted down and spun into airy fibers in a process that is similar to to making cotton candy.
The fibers are woven through a fabric backing (usually polyester) and then sheared/trimmed.
Brush it before you leave the house! This will catch any loose “hairs” (microplastics). Dispose of them in the trash can.
Hand wash it and hang dry/dry flat. Do NOT put it in the dryer (it will melt). Keep it out of the sun while it dries.
If you send it to the dry cleaner, ensure that the dry cleaner knows how to properly clean faux fur.
Repair/replace loose buttons and patch the lining.
Last year a company called ECOPEL launched a 100% plant-based, fully biodegradable faux fur material called FLUR.
It is constructed from a polymer made from regenerated vegetable oil.
This option is not currently in use by any brands/retailers, but that could change. In the past ECOPEL has primarily worked with luxury brands, so it will be quite some time until this is the norm for all brands.
“Vegan suede” or faux suede is actually microfiber fabric, made of a blend of synthetic fibers like polyester, nylon, and/or polypropylene (a thermoplastic).
Pellets of one of the plastics listed above are melted down and extruded into super thin microfilaments. It is then woven/knit into fabric. Sometimes it is submerged in a dye or bleach bath with an alkaline solution to split the fibers, creating a more finely textured surface.
DO NOT PUT FAUX SUEDE IN THE DRYER.
Handwash/hang dry is ideal, but do not dry it in the sun.
Use a lint roller to catch any loose fibers (microplastics) before each wear.
Extend the life of the garment by repairing/replacing loose buttons, holes, tears, and frayed linings.
Ultimately whether you choose real fur/suede or the faux version, it’s a personal choice based on your own values and priorities.
Unhappy with the binary of fur/faux fur and suede/faux suede? Then skip them all! Natural fibers like wool and alpaca can provide more warmth and longevity. Want clothes that are completey free of animals? Opt for cotton, hemp, bamboo, etc.
No matter what you choose to wear, MAKE IT LAST! Because nothing is disposable.
If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording: [email protected]
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