When we talk about the reality of “vegan” textile options like faux fur or faux leather, it is not a “gotcha” moment attack on veganism. A plant-based diet (if done thoughtfully) can have a lower environmental impact than diets that contain animal products.

What you eat is a very personal decision…and clothing should be approached the same way!

This post is part of a longer series unpacking and explaining synthetic fabrics…that is why we WILL not be digging into real leather.

Let’s talk about “vegan leather.”

In most cases, it’s plastic…especially if you are buying it from a mass retailer, any fast fashion brand, or at a lower price.

Yes, there are some non-plastic options out there, but they have not been adopted in a significant way by the fashion industry.

Why? Because they are more expensive. And in a fast fashion world–where big brands count on selling a significant amount of product on sale at a high profit margin–the math just doesn’t math for better leather substitutes.

That is unfortunate, because if big brands with more resources ($$$) supported development and production of high quality, non-plastic leather substitutes, customers (aka you and me) would have many more options.

The rebrand of “vegan leather” has been lucrative.

• Once upon a time, “vegan leather” was called “pleather” and it could only sell at a really low price. Fake leather coats and other clothing were frowned upon and considered “cheap.”

• Rebranding faux leather as “vegan leather” allowed retailers to imply that it was a “sustainable” choice. And it’s not like these brand explained that they were really selling plastic clothing, right?

• The illusion of sustainability also made it possible for retailers to charge higher prices for items made of faux leather, making it extremely profitable.

• Customers also overconsumed fake leather because the implied sustainability made it feel guilt free.

How is it made?

• Production of most faux leather begins with a fabric base (often polyester). The fabric is coated with a “leather like” finish and texture with wax, dye, and polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polyurethane (PU).

• These “layers” give the material both the drape and structure of real leather.

• Most “natural” versions of artificial leather will use plant fiber as the base, but they are still treated with PU or PVC coating. Even current versions of “mushroom leather” contain PU or other binding materials that prevent them from being fully biodegradable.

What is PVC?

• From a purely aesthetic perspective, PVC (polyvinyl chloride) is the best faux choice for bags/wallets because it is stiffer and more durable than PU.

• But PVC has some major drawbacks: It requires the use of phthalates as a plasticizer to make the PVC more flexible. Phthalates are harmful to humans. And the process of manufacturing PVC creates carcinogenic byproducts called dioxins.

• From its creation to its final resting place in landfills, PVC releases toxic fumes that have been linked to respiratory, neurological, and reproductive health issues.

So is PU a better option?

• Yes, technically polyurethane (PU) is “better” than PVC. But…it’s also plastic. PU is made from the same polymers that are used to make foam cushions, insulation, adhesives, and athletic shoes.

• This means that PU is not biodegradable. It’s also not recyclable thanks to the “layering” of materials required to create faux leather. This means that when you are done with a PU garment, it sits in the landfill for centuries.

• Producing PU (like all plastics) requires fossil fuels and a great deal of energy.

Okay, but what about _______ leather?

• Apple leather: about 50% fossil-fuel derived (so yeah, not biodegradable).

• Cactus leather: also partially fossil-fuel derived, so it’s not biodegradable.

• Pineapple leather: yes, also made with fossil fuels (are you seeing a pattern here?)

• Mushroom leather: I was unable to find a fully biodegradable version that did not require additional treatment/coating for long term use.

• MIRUM: The Stella McCartney SOS Fund actually invested in developing the first ever, plastic-free and fossil fuel-free leather substitute, made in Illinois by Natural Fiber Welding. Even the fabric backing is made of cotton, instead of polyester! MIRUM is not widely available and it is rather expensive…but that is something that could change if the rest of the industry invested in its production.

Most faux leather isn’t made to last.

Ironic, right? Sure, faux leather will linger in landfills for centuries, but it doesn’t hold up very long to regular use. But does that really surprise you? Fast fashion loves selling us things that we will have to replace very soon.

It’s VERY vulnerable to moisture. That’s because water (even in the air) can weasel its way between the layers of the material. This leads to flaking, cracking, and peeling.

It’s very important that you keep faux leather clothing and shoes as dry as possible.

Make it last!

I used to wear a lot of faux leather because it felt like the best match for my personal values. Now my wardrobe is a mix of secondhand leather and faux leather items I have had for a long time.

My advice? KEEP IT DRY!

• Store in a dry place. No damp basements! And don’t hang it in a steamy bathroom. If someone spills a drink on you, dry it ASAP.

• Going to be out in the rain? Wear something else. I would wear rubber rain boots outside and change into to my faux leather shoes indoors.

• Spot clean (no washing machine)!

Some final thoughts…

There is no miracle fabric that we can over consume without repercussion. My hang up with “vegan leather” is that for people who don’t understand what it really is may read/hear “vegan” and assume that it IS a material that can be over consumed. And that’s the intent of that renaming of pleather!

I also hesitate to refer to pleather as “cruelty free,” because all living things (including humans) suffer the repercussions of its production and its after life.

I am extremely frustrated with a system that gives us only options that contribute to deforestation (leather), poison the earth (both faux leather and real leather) and cause suffering (both faux leather and real leather). Better options exist, but the industry refuses to fund them.

Remember!

Ultimately whether you choose real leather or the faux version, it’s a personal choice based on your own values and priorities. There is no perfect fabric, only fabrics that best match you and your lifestyle.

Unhappy with the binary of leather/faux leather? Then skip them all! Consider waxed or regular canvas for shoes and bags. Wear a jacket or pants made of other materials! And does anyone really need leather-y dresses and skirts?

No matter what you choose to wear, MAKE IT LAST! Mend it. Rehome it thoughtfully. Shop #SecondhandFirst. And don’t buy things you can’t see yourself wearing over and over again.
Because nothing is disposable.

Images are from the 1971 “World of Barbie” paper doll book.