Queue the Boys II Men…because this is the final post in my series about synthetic fabrics. And for this final post, we’re going to talk about a banger: elastane aka spandex aka Lycra.
Elastane is in so many of the clothes we are being sold these days: jeans, underwear, shapewear, swimsuits, socks, leggings, tees. But guess what? It’s plastic. Fossil fuel-derived. High carbon footprint to produce. Not recyclable. Not biodegradable. And the second it stretches out… it’s trash.
The fashion industry has begun to add a little bit of elastane to so many of our clothes because it makes things fit a little bit better…without investing the time and money to make it fit better. It can lower return rates for difficult categories like jeans. In a fast fashion, online shopping kinda world…it makes sense to make all clothes a little stretchy. But when the fibers stop recovering their stretch after each wear, the clothes themselves become unwearable. Jeggings start falling down all day. Leggings get weird and baggy in the knees. Shirts fit weird. And sports bras stop doing their job.
But also: in some cases there just aren’t that many good alternatives to plain old spandex, like sports bras and swimwear. Like, I just wear cotton pants and a t-shirt to work out, but I kinda need a sports bra for anything serious. So I get it!
In this post, we’re digging into what elastane is, how it’s made, why it’s in everything, and how to care for it so it doesn’t hit the landfill quite so fast.
Elastane is a generic name for an entire family of stretchy fabrics. It is also called spandex. One “name brand” version of elastane is Lycra.
Elastane is an entirely synthetic fabric.
That means it is made from petroleum.
The process for manufacturing it is energy intensive, so elastane has a high carbon footprint.
And because it is synthetic, it is not biodegradable. It is also not recyclable.
It also contributes to microplastic pollution.
Jeans + jeggings: helps them fit snugly
Tees + tops: gives subtle stretch
Bras, underwear, + shapewear: adds support and flexibility
Swimwear: often blended with nylon
Socks + tights: helps them stay in place
Leggings + sports bras: stretch gives maximum movement
Bodycon dresses + skirts: basically any fitted garment
Also: compression garments, braces, bandages, some uniforms, and dancewear
Elastane is used in so many items…many times you won’t be able to tell unless you read the fiber content label.
Sometimes it is almost “invisibly” blended at just 1-3% of the total fiber content…enough to make the garment fit a certain way (or make the fit just a little easier).
In fact, the addition of elastane to just about everything is part of the fast fashion-ification of clothing: adding a tiny bit of stretch means that the fit doesn’t have to be perfect, which saves the time/$$$ usually needed to get it right.
Stretches up to 500%…and then bounces back (until it loses that ability over time).
Cannot regain its stretchiness after it loses it.
Not breathable, not recyclable, not biodegradable.
Sheds microplastics every time you wear or wash it.
Breaks down over time with exposure to heat, chlorine, your body’s natural oils, and general wear.
Fossil fuels (petroleum) are used to create a polyurethane polymer. You might remember polyurethane (PU) from the installment in this series about fake leather.
These PU polymers are mixed with solvents to create a stretchy plastic goo.
Next, fibers are created by pushing the goo through tiny holes (a spinneret) and blasting it with hot air.
These fibers are stretched to several times their original length. This gives elastane its stretch and recovery. The fibers are then heat-treated to “set” that stretchiness.
At this point, the fibers may be coated with a lubricant like silicone to make it easier to mix with other fibers.
Unlike some plastics, elastane just cannot be melted down or reused. Period.
What makes this even more depressing? When elastane is blended with other fabrics (and we know it’s in so many clothes these days), those fabrics can no longer be recycled either. The tech to separate these fibers just doesn’t exist yet.
In fact, even a tiny bit of elastane can clog mechanical recycling machinery.
Basically all clothing with elastane is destined for the landfill.
The most important thing you can do to live a more sustainable, mindful way of life is…wear your clothes for as long as possible. And that means, no matter which fabrics you choose:
Pick things that make you feel comfortable (mentally and physically), so you will be more inclined to wear them over and over again. Sometimes that’s just going to mean that YES, you do own items like spandex sports bras and leggings.
Take care of your clothing to make it last as long as possible. And repair it if possible.
Don’t buy more than you need. Like, no one needs a leggings subscription (sorry, but it’s true).
In some cases…YES! But it will require thinking differently (and maybe spending a little bit more $$$). And other times, there just isn’t a better option.
For workout clothing and loungewear, consider natural fibers with built-in stretch, like knit cotton, linen jersey, or ribbed wool.
For regular comfy clothes, look for clothes made from woven fabrics using old school techniques to help you move with ease: bias cuts, gathers, darts, and pleats.
Also, think about the longevity of a garment. A fully stretchy dress? Eventually that will wear out and then it’s kinda RIP. But a woven dress with an elastic waist? You can replace that elastic when it wears out…and you still have a fully functional dress!
There are some “compostable” alternatives to spandex out there, but once again, read labels carefully and stay skeptical.
Wash in cold water on the gentle cycle (or even wash by hand). Remember, heat breaks down the elastane fibers over time, so you want to avoid hot water at all costs.
Skip the dryer! Yep, heat and elastane are not a good combo, so air dry is the way.
Rotate your wears. I know this sounds weird, but elastane needs rest to recover its stretchiness! So don’t wear the same leggings or skinny jeans three days in a row. Give them a day off!
Just say no to fabric softener. It actually coats the fibers and affects their stretchiness.
Be careful with lotions and oils. They can degrade the stretch over time.
Your list may vary (because values are extremely personal):
Amazon, Walmart, Target, SHEIN, Temu…basically any company with opaque supply chains and labor issues.
Companies like Trader Joes and Starbucks who engage in anti-union tactics.
Brands who refused to #PayUp on orders cancelled in 2020: all the URBN brands, American Eagle, Aerie, TJ Maxx, Home Goods, Marshalls, Ross, Kohl’s, Forever 21, and more.
Any company with an obvious political stance that does not fit my own values. Yeah, that means I won’t be renting a truck from the U-Haul place in my town with a massive Trump sign. Definitely not buying cookies from this terrible viral cookie place here in Lancaster County.
That’s just the beginning of my list. Most importantly, I try to shop secondhand first. And when I can’t do that, I start by looking for something local from a small business.
My thought process as I make decisions about where and when to shop:
First things first: do I really need this? Is it more of a want?
If it’s clothing: why do I need it? When and how will I wear it? Am I prepared to care for it properly and mend it when necessary?
If it’s not clothing, where will it live in my home? Can I see myself using this thing for a long time?
Can I find it secondhand? Often I’ll look online and in person for this item, for days, weeks, even months (if it is not urgent).
If I can’t find it secondhand, can I find it from a local small business? That means my money will stay within the community.
If I can’t find it locally, can I find it elsewhere from a small business? My money has more immediate impact with a small business.
If I still can’t find it, but definitely need it…then I’ll buy it elsewhere.
Want a real, paper version of this series? Get your own copy of The Clotheshorse Guide to Synthetic Fibers & Fabrics here.
If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording: [email protected]
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