This is part two in a series. You can find part one here.
As you read the posts in this series, keep this mind:
❊ Don’t shame others (or yourself) for owning synthetic clothing. The majority of clothing made in the past ten years (or more) has been synthetic. I own clothing made from synthetic fabrics! And I’m committed to getting us much use out of those items, even buying them secondhand. I do my best to mitigate microplastic shedding by following the laundry instructions in part one of this series. And I care and repair for everything so it will last as long as possible. These items will be on this planet long after I am gone, so I want to get maximum use out of them.
❊ There is no easy answer here. Wait until we get to the natural fiber part of the series…there are lots of pesticides, water use, and greenwashing at play with natural fibers. And they may not be biodegradable either, thanks to dyes and treatments. The truth is: There is no miracle fabric that allows us to continue to overconsume clothing with no repercussion. All fabrics have an impact and we should not be overshopping. Period.
The “easiest” answer to question “which fabric is best?” is this: buy less, make it last for as long as possible, and choose fabrics/clothes that you will wear often and for a long time.
In part 2, I break down the ultimate master of disguise, polyester! We tend to think of the 1970s as the golden era of polyester: classic Mr. Furley leisure suits, separates like vests with matching pants, dresses in bold prints…but guess what? We’re using more polyester now than we did back then! Thanks to lots of innovations in polyester production, it can take on many super sneaky forms. You have to read those fabric labels, friends!
Polyester was developed in 1935 as scientists looked for alternatives to natural fibers for use in military supplies.
It was put aside for a few years as scientists decided to focus their work on nylon. In the 40s/50s, development continued and soon companies were patenting their own versions like Dacron (Dupont) and Kodel (Eastman Chemical).
There are many different types of plastic polymers used in polyester production, but the most common is polyethylene terephthalate (PET), a common plastic used for water bottles and other packaging.
Polyester is created by heating the plastic and forcing it through spinnerets. The fibers are stretched to five times their length, typically combined into yarn, and then knitted or woven into the fabric.
It’s durable, versatile, resistant to fading, wrinkling, and stains, light weight, and it has a quick drying time. Many people appreciate its “wicking” qualities for active wear.
And oh yeah, it’s wayyyyyy cheaper and easier to produce than natural fibers. In fact, as climate change makes natural fiber production more unpredictable/difficult, polyester will fill that void (if we let it).
And it makes sense, right? Polyester of the 60s/70s was thick, highly textured, and structured. It was also easily identified from across the room.
Polyester fell by the wayside for a decade or so, but then innovations in production enabled it to become THE FABRIC of the fast fashion era! Customers didn’t know they were buying polyester because it was so different in texture and weight!
It takes on many forms:
chiffon (sheer, often snaggy fabric)
velvet (while velvets can be made of silk, any inexpensive velvet is definitely polyester)
satin (often used in lingerie and very prone to snagging…and yes, while even fine fabrics can have a satin finish, the majority of the satin fabrics we are being sold on the mass market are polyester)
microfiber (this is often used for blankets, cleaning, towels, more home goods applications)
organza (sheer-ish, common in dresses)
faux fleece (often called “polar fleece”)
and it is often blended with natural fibers like cotton (common with tees).
This is not a comprehensive list!
Yes, polyester is less expensive than natural fibers. That means it is frequently used in lower priced clothing…but it’s also used by higher priced brands…and even luxury brands!
Because polyester takes color and print well (and customers often can’t spot it), it is a popular choice for many brands. You cannot identify polyester by the price of a garment.
Pure 100% polyester CAN be recycled…but only once or twice. Like all plastics, the fibers degrade during the recycling process, and often they have to be combined with new (virgin) fibers to be usable. The majority of “recycled polyester “ (rPET) clothing and textiles on the market right now are actually made of recycled plastic bottles.
And to make matters more complicated, polyester is often blended with other fibers, frequently rendering it unrecyclable.
NOOOOOOOOOOOO. See also: oh hell no.
Mitigate microplastic shedding by changing up your laundry habits (see part one of this series).
These clothes/textiles are not biodegradable and they will be sitting in the landfill for centuries, so get the maximum wear out of them via mending, proper care, and outift repeating.
The last thing I want to add here: odds are good that your favorite small business isn’t planning on buying an election, gutting the federal government, or blasting rockets into the atmosphere. So shop small when you can!
If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording: [email protected]
Deco Denim is a startup based out of San Francisco, selling clothing and accessories that are sustainable, gender fluid, size inclusive and high quality–made to last for years to come. Deco Denim is trying to change the way you think about buying clothes. Founder Sarah Mattes wants to empower people to ask important questions like, “Where was this made? Was this garment made ethically? Is this fabric made of plastic? Can this garment be upcycled and if not, can it be recycled?” Signup at decodenim.com to receive $20 off your first purchase. They promise not to spam you and send out no more than 3 emails a month, with 2 of them surrounding education or a personal note from the Founder. Find them on Instagram as @deco.denim.
Selina Sanders, a social impact brand that specializes in up-cycled clothing, using only reclaimed, vintage or thrifted materials: from tea towels, linens, blankets and quilts. Sustainably crafted in Los Angeles, each piece is designed to last in one’s closet for generations to come. Maximum Style; Minimal Carbon Footprint.
Republica Unicornia Yarns: Hand-Dyed Yarn and notions for the color-obsessed. Made with love and some swearing in fabulous Atlanta, Georgia by Head Yarn Wench Kathleen. Get ready for rainbows with a side of Giving A Damn! Republica Unicornia is all about making your own magic using small-batch, responsibly sourced, hand-dyed yarns and thoughtfully made notions. Slow fashion all the way down and discover the joy of creating your very own beautiful hand knit, crocheted, or woven pieces. Find us on Instagram @republica_unicornia_yarns and at www.republicaunicornia.com.
Cute Little Ruin is an online shop dedicated to providing quality vintage and secondhand clothing, vinyl, and home items in a wide range of styles and price points. If it’s ethical and legal, we try to find a new home for it! Vintage style with progressive values. Find us on Instagram at @CuteLittleRuin.
